Italy 2024
Newsletter 01 - November 2023
In this edition...
Also included are this month's book, song, and movie selections. The newsletter ends with the Italian phrase of the month.
Rome - Top Five
1. The Colosseum
The Colosseum is perhaps the most notable attraction in Rome, so it is no surprise that it heads off this list. But what are we looking at when we see the Colosseum?
The Colosseum was the site of the famous public spectacles that culminated in the gladiator battles. It opened in the year 80 and is located at the end of the Roman Forum, directly in the center of Rome. The word "colosseum" is actually a nickname for the Flavian Amphiteater. "Colosseum" comes from the "colossal" statue that stood nearby! (Think of the "sails" in downtown Hickory, NC.)
I have two specifics to look at when you stand at the Colosseum.
1. Notice the Roman numerals over the arches on the first level. These are the gate numbers! The attendees would be given tiles with the gate numbers on them. The day of the spectacle must have been very similar to stadium events today; friends comparing tickets and seats to see where they were sitting, vendors selling food and paraphernalia outside, and a general excitement while waiting for the event to start.
2. Notice the columns at each level of the Colosseum. In architecture there are three types of columns, Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. (Even columns in modern buildings are derivatives of these three column types. At the Colosseum, the first level contains Doric columns, noted for the plain capitals, or tops. The second level has Ionic capitals, which represent scrolls. The Doric and Ionic columns come from ancient Greece. The third level shows the distinctly Roman Corinthian capitals, notable for the leafy top of the columns. (The leaves are acanthus leaves, and you will see the actual plants throughout the city.)
Included in the visit of the Colosseum is the adjoining Roman Forum. The Forum was the center of civic life. It was the downtown of ancient Rome. Like many towns in America (and across the world) it is where the law courts are, it is where the parades took place, and, in general, it was where official business took place. Enough of the buildings remain to get a sense of the magnificence and scale of ancient Rome.
2. Vatican City
The Vatican Museums contain some of the most important art in the world. Your visit will be overwhelming. Like eating a big meal, don’t fill up with the appetizer. You will be tempted to take the time to look at all of the works near the entrances. (There are some magnificent pieces there.) However your trip to the Vatican will wind through seemingly endless galleries that either contain art, or is the art itself. It is tempting to devour all this art when you come to it. Consider, however, that at the end you will exit into the Sistine Chapel, where both the ceiling and the wall are completely covered by Michelangelo’s art. You will want to have saved room to appreciate this masterpiece.
The Sistine Chapel literally changed the history of art, and all European art following MIchelangelo is a response of some sort to his ceiling. Note the colors of the ceiling and the subject matter. The colors are bright and vivid. The subject matter comes from Genesis, with the individual panels of the ceiling portraying scenes from the separation of light and darkness through the flood.
Your exit from the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel will lead you to St. Peter’s Basilica. This is not to be missed visit. And will cap an overwhelming visit to Vatican City.
3. The Pantheon
The Pantheon is remarkable in that it is an entirely intact domed structure. The original building was constructed around 25 BC, and the current renovation with the dome dates from the year 120 AD. The dome is open at the top, when means rain does come in. But so does the light. And the massive bronze doors are original.
The area surrounding the Pantheon presents the visitor with some of the most enjoyable walking places in Rome.
4. Trastevere
The river that flows through Rome is the Tiber River. In Italian it is called the Tevere. The region across the river is called Trastevere, and is consistent with such American terms as “Northside” or “Uptown”. Slightly off the beaten path, but still very much in the heart of Rome, Trastevere provides the visitor with beautiful walking opportunities, a selections of shops and restaurants, and a nice, easier pace, which is a relief after sightseeing with the crowds all day.
There are two churches in particular that are on my list of must sees in Rome - one of which I have never seen. The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest churches in Rome, the foundation of which dates to the 340’s shortly after the legalization of Christianity. It is uniquely placed off center of the piazza and is full of beautiful mosaics.
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere is dedicated to the saint who was killed in the early 200s. Although, as with all burials, she would have been buried outside of the city, the church was likely founded over her home. In 822 Pope Paschal returned her body to her home. Although the church has undergone many appropriate renovations over the centuries, the mosaics in the apse date from the time of Pope Paschal. One of the most moving works of art is a sculpture that depicts the lifeless body of Saint Cecilia herself, carved as she appeared in her uncorrupted form, 1300 years after her death.
I have written previously about the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere and the church of Santa Cecilia. I encourage you to take the time to look at these articles for more details.
5. The Spanish Steps
Rome is full of piazzas where weary travelers can catch their breath and enjoy a gelato. Perhaps the most famous are the Spanish Steps, noted for its co-starring role with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday. (It should be noted, however, that it is no longer permissible to loiter on the steps themselves. By all means, climb the stairs and enjoy the sights of Rome - just don’t sit on the steps!) Take the time to enjoy the walk up to the piazza along the Via dei Condotti which boasts some of the gliztiest shops in Rome, including Bvlgari, Cartier, Giorgio Armani, and Rolex.
History: The Medici
The Medici are a family that ruled Florence and had a heavy hand in the development of the Renaissance in Florence.
Who Were They?
A family of bankers
What Did They Do?
They sponsored art and learning.
That seems kind of vague. Can you elaborate?
The Medici, as bankers, had enough money to sponsor cultural events. Think of our own times. Wealthy citizens sponsor cultural events even today. Look at the program at a play you are attending and you will see the list of donors. Look at a plaque on the outside of a building, such as an art museum or theater, and often times the donors are listed. Go to youth sports event in your hometown and you will likely see banners of families who have contributed to the park. This is what the Medici did; they sponsored cultural events of all kinds, including sculpture, painting, architecture, and manuscript collections.
How is this related to the Renaissance?
The Renaissance is a “rebirth” of antiquity. That is to say, in the arts of sculpture, architecture, painting, and learning certain sections of Florence were discovering the arts of sculpture, architecture, painting, and learning from antiquity.
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Brunelleschi was designing the church of San Lorenzo and building the dome of Florence cathedral.
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Donatello was creating magnificent sculptures, including the first, full size sculptures since the Romans.
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Masaccio was painting realistic pictures in linear perspective.
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Vespasiano da Bisticci was collecting manuscripts that had not been studied or seen (apart from the person who copied them) since the Romans had written them.
All of these were sponsored by the Medici. It is impossible to underestimate the impact of the Medici on the development of the Renaissance.
How will I recognize the influence of the Medici?
Their symbol is balls, and you can see their coat of arms throughout Tuscany. One theory about the origin of their symbol that I particularly like is that the “balls”, the “palle” are the blood oranges common in Italy. They were thought to present health benefits. So it is natural that the healthy blood oranges be connected to the “Medici” or the “doctors”.
Who is Lorenzo de’ Medici?
The most re-knowned Medici - the Medici that contributed directly to the development of the Renaissance - was Lorenzo de’ Medici. He was also known as Lorenzo the Magnificent! He cultivated experts in the field that contributed to the development of all areas of the Renaissance. He hired scholars to seek out important manuscripts. He discovered artists such as Botticelli and Michelangelo to create art. All of this was made possible, however, by his ability to bank. He funded the heavy hitters throughout Italy. The biggest event of 1492 was not the discovery of the new world, but the death of Lorenzo the Magnificent. When he died Italy much of Italy faced the uncertainty that faces many people today; is my money safe?
Ceiling of San Lorenzo, the Medici church in Florence.
This church belongs to the Medici. Notice the coat of arms with the Medici balls.
Practical Tips: Packing
Glasses case:
Do not take your glasses off on an airplane without putting them in a case. Glasses that are not in a case will quickly be sucked into the void between seats. There they will become bent beyond recognition, making the rest of your trip a constant struggle to get your glasses comfortable again. (Keep in mind that travel to Europe generally involves an overnight flight which means you will be sleeping. Sleeping means you will be taking off glasses. This may be something you may not have considered, even if are a seasoned flier within the United States.)
Travel Pillow:
There are two camps of travel pillow users: those that use them and those that don’t. I bought a travel pillow once and found that I didn’t really use it on the plane. It bent my head at a weird angle and I could never really get comfortable. However, when I got to my destination I found the hotel did not have the number of pillows I wanted. I ended up using it there. Travel pillows are reasonably portable - at airports they are often attached on the top of suitcases like hood ornaments. They can be squished too. Go ahead and get a travel pillow. At the very least you can use it at the end of your trip to secure that little statue of David you got in Florence allowing it to make it home safe in your suitcase. Then you can put it on a shelf at your home where a cat will knock it off.
Contact lens solution:
Self explanatory. However, don’t feel compelled to get the biggest bottle you need. People in other countries wear contacts too. You will be able to get more if you need it.
Day pack:
The use of a day pack is a personal one. Do you find you need things during the day? Dental floss? Back scratcher? Something to write with? Likely this will not change during travel. Even if you have only a guidebook, a day pack may be best for carrying that, because it leaves your hands free. However, a day pack is a collectors dream! At the end of the day you will be carrying EVERYTHING! Even things you don’t need. (“I know it is September, but it COULD snow. I’ll bring a scarf and gloves just in case.”) If, however, you can walk out of the house with nothing in your pockets but your hands, you will likely be fine without it.
Headphones:
Individual ear buds, like glasses, will find their way into the deepest seat of an airplane. Even if they fall in plain sight on the floor - and I am not exaggerating when I say this - sometimes airplane rows are so close together you will not be able to reach down to the floor and pick it up. Rather than asking the whole row of people to move just so you can grab your fallen ear bud, use headphones that have a cord. You are stuck on an airplane. You have no need for the mobility that ear buds provide. If your phone does not have a plug for headphones, seriously consider the ear buds that are connected with a cord. The battery on those last longer anyway, and you can easily drape them over your neck. And finally, if you are tied to your ear buds, do a quick search for a cord that connects them. They are readily available and very cheap. This small purchase will be worth the price!
Portable charger:
Yes, this is something you will need to carry around. However, there is nothing so disappointing and distracting as having to monitor your picture taking because your phone battery is dying. In addition, for overseas flights you will likely be using your phone for six or seven hours straight, either listening to music or watching movies. When you add in the additional time in the airport or transportation to and from the airport your usage could easily top twelve hours. Even the flagship smart phones don’t pretend to have batteries that can last that long. Many airplanes do have USB chargers in the arm of your seat. However, generally they do not provide the power to charge up your phone and can only maintain the current power level - and barely that. In addition, many local flights that take you to your departure hub will not have USB charging ports in your seat.
Chargers for use in foreign countries:
You will want to plug your phone into a wall socket to charge it overnight. Go ahead and buy one in advance. They are not that expensive and you will find it helpful. Sometimes this can be risky in that they simply will not work. There are benefits to purchasing one in the country you are visiting. Consider that when you arrive in your hotel, you will not only want to charge your phone, but your portable charger. (See note on Portable Charger.) Therefore you will need a charger with TWO ports. Moreover, if you are traveling with others, they will also need to charge their phones and portable chargers. Depending on the number of people sharing the room and the perhaps budget accommodations you have selected, the outlets in the wall could become a premium. You could be setting the stage for a Battle Royale! Consider purchasing a multi-port charger upon arriving at your destination. You will have the ports you need and you know that it will work on the currency of the country. (Rome’s Termini Station, for example, contains a national brand electronics store. Unlike airport stores that cater to a closed, helpless lot of travelers, the prices in busy train stations may not be as inflated as you expect.) It may not be a bad idea to buy a cheap charger in advance to take with you just in case. But also consider buying one in the country when you arrive.
Portable travel dictionary with helpful phrases:
In heavily traveled areas most cities want you to be able to find their sites. (You could be dropped off in the general vicinity of the Trevi Fountain in Rome and rather quickly find a sign.) Also, locals and businesses in the area have been asked enough times about directions. You could likely have a non-verbal conversation about directions; stop a passerby with a confused look and they will simply point in the direction you need to go, with neither one of you saying a word. There are times, however, when you may have the time and desire - and need - to converse. Of course we love our smart phones and they can readily provide all the information we need. However, often times the connection in another country can be poor, and that can be frustrating if you are standing on a street corner and just want directions. More importantly, however, if you are trying to get your point across to a potentially helpful stranger in a busy location, which would your rather do? Hand the stranger a dictionary and point to words? Or hand them your phone? Get a very small pocket dictionary.
For women, a scarf that can cover the shoulders:
I have seen women denied entry to places because their shoulders were not covered. This may not be a factor in winter months, but during the summer, carry a scarf. It may be wise to take something that can be used as a wrap-around skirt, since you could be denied entry for shorts as well. (To be clear, men are expected to present certain levels of decorum as well. However, this largely means taking off a hat.)
Imodium:
There are a lot of medicines that you may reasonably not feel compelled to pack. These include sinus medicine, cough drops, and general allergies. These are readily available in Italy, and pharmacies can be found in any Italian neighborhood. One medicine, however, should be carried with you: imodium. You will be traveling at odd hours. You will be eating different foods. When the need for imodium hits you will NOT want to wait until you find a pharmacy. Unlike a stuffy nose or a sore throat, the need for imodium is IMMEDIATE. Carry imodium with you.
Cultural Notes
Movie
Roman Holiday
This month's selection is Roman Holiday, starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. This movie is a classic that hits all the highlights of Rome. The storyline is enjoyable too!
Song
Zitti e Buoni by Maneskin
Siami fuori di testa. We are out of our minds! This song may not be to your taste, but it won the annual Sanremo music festival, which allowed it to go on to the Eurovision contest. Maneskin won the Eurovision contest, which makes it the most popular song in Europe for 2021! You can see their performance from Sanremo 2021 here: https://youtu.be/aA12F2ZBtJ0
Book
Italian Ways by Timothy Parks
Tim Parks is a prolific writer of Italian matters, and his book “Italian Ways” is a fascinating story of both riding trains in Italy as well as a history of the rail system in Italy. You might not think that writing about Italian trains is interesting: think again! However, he has plenty of other books to review if you are curious about what it is like for a non-Italian to live in Italy.
Lesson in Italian: Va Bene
Va bene is an all purpose phrase that is roughly equivalent to OK.
It is often used as a response to the phrase, come va? (How’s it going?) Va bene. (It’s going well.)
In practice you will most often hear it when buying pizza by the slice. Pizza is presented in full sheets under glass. When you ask for a slice of pizza they will split the knife where they think you want it. They will ask, "Bene cosi?" This means, "Is it okay like this?" And your response is, "Si, va bene." (Or perhaps, "Piu piccolo" (smaller) or "Piu granda" (larger). Whatever your response, when the shopkeeper asks, “Va bene cosi?” the shopkeeper is asking, “Is this okay like this?”
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