Day 3 - Ancient Rome
Morning
The Colosseum and the Roman Forum are the heart of Ancient Rome, and this is where we are starting our first full day in the city.
We will begin at the enormous structure that has stood for centuries, the Colosseum. The Colosseum was built during the early empire, right around 80 AD. There are four levels of arches, which would have contained heroic statues, and an upper level that would have supported the awning that covered the seats. Take the time to notice the Roman numerals, still visible over the arches at ground level. These are the gate numbers, and visitors would have entered the Colosseum through the arch corresponding to their ticket!
The Colosseum is part of a complex that included a large fountain, the base of which is still present in front of the ticket booth, and a colossal statue of the emperor Nero, which is now gone. It is this missing statue that gives the Colosseum its name. Also present in this area is the impressive arch of Constantine, a later addition to the complex honoring Constantine's acquisition of the control of Rome in 312 AD.
We can turn 180 degrees from the Colosseum and walk to the Arch of Titus at the end of the Forum. Built to commemorate the destruction of Jerusalem, take the time to note the scenes of the triumphal procession that would have passed - as all triumphal processions - along the very road you are standing on.
In an awkward move, however, the entrance to the forum for the modern day visitor is not here. Instead we must walk down the very busy modern street, enter the forum, and backtrack to this point to continue our tour through the forum!
While we are on the busy Via dei Fori Imperiali let's take time to address it. This major street was built by Mussolini, who constructed it to connect the center of ancient Rome (up ahead) to modern Rome. Walking from the Colosseum to the Forum entrance you can see, looming ahead, the massive white construction that is known by various names; the Altar of the Fatherland, the monument to Victor Emmanuel, or the Wedding Cake. It stands in front of the Piazza Venezia, the central piazza in Rome (Rome’s Christmas tree is placed here every year), and it is from a balcony overlooking this piazza that Mussolini would give his most famous speeches. (Currently the piazza is the site of much construction as Rome adds a new subway line.)
Once we enter the Forum proper, we will make our way back to the Arch of Titus and continue our procession down the Sacred Way. We will stop at the massive Basilica of Maxentius and be amazed that this is only one-third of the structure. We will approach the rostrum, where all famous Roman speeches were made, including famously the speech of Mark Antony, presenting the murdered body of Caesar to the crowds, as we stand precisely where they stood.
We will finish our time around the forum at the Column of Trajan, admiring the intricate carvings that memorialize the military victories of the emperor, Trajan.
This is a full morning, but we are not done with Ancient Rome!
Afternoon
After visiting the center of ancient Rome it will be nice to spend the afternoon away from the crowds. Let us cross the Tiber river and head to the Trastevere district of Rome.
If we have the energy after lunch we can walk past the Circus Maximus to the island in the Tiber river. This route will allow us to pass by the Bocca della Verita - the Mouth of Truth - made famous by Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.
We will cross over the river using the Pons Fabricius, an ancient Roman bridge dating from 62 BC, still used today!
Apart from enjoying the slower pace and interesting shops of Trastevere, there are two sites to see during our visit. Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest church sites in Rome. Founded at the site of a house in 220, this basilica is possibly the oldest church in Rome dedicated to Mary. (Santa Maria Maggiore also claims that distinction.) Many Christian homes were used for churches, and, as a result, the existing churches called “titular” churches. (We still use the term “title” when discussing home ownership.) Santa Maria in Trastavere is known for the beautiful mosaics as well as the relaxing square out front.
Another church to be seen in Trastevere is Santa Caecilia. Also a very old church, it houses the remains of Saint Cecilia. Her body is said to be incorrupt. During renovations to the church in the 1500s her body was moved, and, amazed at her state of preservation the process was halted until an artist came in to memorialize the moment. This sculpture is visible near the altar. Note the incision at the back of her neck, a symbol of her martyrdom.
Day 3 - Ancient Rome
All photos by Rick Bessey, Author