Day 4 - Vatican Museums

Morning

Let's go to the Vatican Museums! It is best to get up and see this early in the morning, before the crowds arrive. But don't worry - we will not be alone! The Vatican Museums contain the greatest collection of art and antiquities in the world. We will see some of the greatest ancient sculpture, the most amazing Renaissance art, and, the last item in the museum, Michaelangelo's Sistine Ceiling.

The collections can not be viewed in one day. If you spend your time at the outset taking it all in, you will still be there at the end of the day - and you will be exceptionally worn out. I will propose a few highlights here, and I encourage you to take the time to see if there are any specific items you would like to see.

The Laocoon: In Mythology Laocoon was a Trojan who tried to warn the city about the trick of the Trojan Horse. The gods, sympathetic to the Greeks, sent two serpents to "shut him up" so the Greek plan of hiding in the horse would not be exposed. The sculpture shows this moment of snakes eating Laocoon and his two sons.

This specific sculpture has a fascinating history. The ancient Roman author Pliny actually wrote about this sculpture in approximately AD 79. However, the sculpture was lost for centuries until 1505 when it was discovered in Rome. Michaelangelo was present when it was unearthed! The right arm, however, had become separated from the body. Artists imagined what the right arm might have looked like (and you will see a copy in the Vatican with an arm outstretched). Michaelangelo theorized that the arm would have been bent, and he was proven correct in the early 1900s when the arm was found in a pawn shop in Rome! (You can read about the account here, or Google any of a number of stories about it.)

The School of Athens, by Raphael: Many have heard of the School of Athens painting. It famously shows Aristotle and Plato set in a beautiful ancient setting with other notable philosophers surrounding them. Raphael was working on this at the same time as Michaelangleo was painting the Sistine Chapel, and is said to have been so influenced by Michaelangelo's work that he included his likeness among the philosophers.

What surprises visitors to the Vatican is the sheer size of this work; it takes up the whole wall! Like the Sistine Chapel, the School of Athens is a frescoe, which means it was painted directly into the wet plaster on the wall. This is not a portable work of art, but chemically now part of the wall.

The Sistine Chapel: We will finish our tour of the Vatican Museums here at the Sistine Chapel. Michaelangelo worked on the ceiling from 1508 to 1512, and returned to cover the end wall 24 years later at the age of 61. Both works are frescoes - painted into wet plaster. The ceiling presents us with views from the book of Genesis, including the separation of light and darkness, the flood, and, famously, the Creation of Man in the center of the ceiling. Surrounding and below each of these images are old testament figures and ancient prophets.

There is no talking in the Sistine Chapel, and the guards are exceptionally persistent in reminding visitors to be silent. (Silenzio!) I would encourage you to take a bit of time in advance to view some images online, and take the time when you are they to find your favorites. (I particularly like Jonah, visible with the fish behind him.)

Visiting the Vatican Museums will take hours, and it will absolutely be time for a snack after this. (The cafeteria at the Vatican provides passable pizza.)

Energy renewed we will enter the Basilica of St. Peter's. Be prepared - St. Peter's is exceptionally breathtaking. Michaelangelo's Pieta is located very near the entrance. Stop to marvel at this exquisite work of art. Continue to stand under the massive dome. Under the altar is the burial place of St. Peter. The baldacchino - the covering of the altar - was created by Bernini using bronze from the Pantheon. The dome above you was designed by Michelangelo.

Take the time to walk around this impressive basilica.

Afternoon

After lunch we visit the Pantheon, a domed Roman temple that, for centuries, was the largest dome structure in the world, until Brunelleschi completed the dome of Florence Cathedral. The building is a circular structure, and the massive bronze doors are original! The structure tremendously influenced Renaissance architecture, and we will see echoes of it throught the rest of the trip.

We will wind our ways through some of Rome’s oldest streets to the Piazza Navona, site of the ancient Stadium of Domitian. The race track is gone, but the shape is retained in this piazza, and it is a wonderful place to sit and relax.

At the center of one of the sides of the piazza is the beautiful church Sant'Agnese in Agone, dedicated to St. Agnes, one of Rome’s most well-known martyrs. Beheaded for her faith in 304 AD, the church is a beautiful monument to her memory.

Although you can never be done with Ancient Rome while visiting the city, the rest of the afternoon will focus on visiting some of the most fascinating churches of the city. We will continue our walk through the neighborhood and enter the baroque church of St. Louis of the French, where we will see the artwork of the master, Caravaggio. After the morning exploring ancient ruins, this beautifully ornate church will be a delight for the eyes.

It may be time for a gelato or pastry break - we will need a bit more energy to finish the day! Let’s hop in a taxi!

Santa Maria Maggiore is the oldest of four Papal Basilicas in Rome, and is an impressive sight to behold. Set high on the Esquiline HIll, the building itself is imposing, and the interior is set to match. The original church was established around 430, and the building reflects years of additions and history. Pope John Paul II was particularly fond of this church and would pray here after every visit abroad.

Very near to Santa Maria Maggiore is the church of Santa Prassede. This church is set over the home of Saint Prassede, and is known for its intricate mosaics dating from the early 800s. (On a personal note, this is exceptionally high on my #italy2024 list!)

This day will be an absolute full day. Let’s face it - you may be worn out just reading about it! On days like this, however, we will be mindful of the pace and take plenty of breaks! The Vatican Museums and St. Peter's may not be faced pace, but the entire time will be spent on your feet. The afternoon, admittedly, is a little more jumping around, but I’ve selected sights that are near to each other. (The exception is the Santa Maria Maggiore - but we will taxi there, and it is reasonably close to the hotel.) Take the breaks you need to keep your energy up!