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Writer's pictureRick Bessey

Santa Maria in Domnica - Sunday, Second Week of Lent



Today's church is a lovely church just south of the Colosseum. There are two items of note that are directly related to the evolution of the church.


Pope Paschal I

Pope Paschal I held the papacy from 817-824, just a few short years. In that time, however, he is credited for several building projects in Rome, including Santa Maria in Domnica. His image appears in the mosaic within the basilica, and, moreover, we will have an opportunity to meet with Pope Pascal I again.


Pope Leo X

Pope Leo X was born in 1475 (the same year as Michaelangelo) as Giovanni di Lorenzo de Medici: a Medici pope. His father was Lorenzo de' Medici, who was also known as Lorenzo the Magnificent. (Yes - THAT Lorenzo!) Lorenzo and his family fostered the flourishing of the arts in Florence, ushering in the Renaissance. Lorenzo, understanding that to maintain power and influence in central Italy, it was important to not only curry favor with the Papacy, but to actively be a part of the organization of the Catholic church. To this end, Lorenzo was able to gain his son, Giovanni di Lorenzo de Medici, the title of Cardinal of Santa Maria in Domnica at the age of 13!



The Basilica

The basilica was constructed as a typical basilica style church, and, although it underwent much cosmetic construction, the original building still remains. The earliest date of the church is not known for sure, but Paschal was responsible for the rebuilding in the 9th century. Paschal's role is made explicit in the inscription in the apse.


The apse of the basilica contains an elaborate mosaic of the Madonna and Child flanked by attending saints in white garb. Kneeling at her feet is Pope Paschal I. He is notable in that he is the only other figure in the scene who is kneeling, and he bears a square halo, which is an element reserved for living persons. In other words, the image is a contemporary image of the Pope.


An inscription below the scene reads as follows: Ista Domus pridem fuerat confracta ruinis nunc rutilat iugiter variis decorata metallis et Deus ecce suus. Splendet ceu Phoebus [Venus in the morning] in orbe qui post furva fugans tetrae velamina noctis. Virgo Maria tibi Paschalis praesul honestus condidit hanc aulam laetus per saecla manendam.


Translastion: This house had once been broken into ruins. Now it shines eternally, decorated with various metals. And behold, The Lord. It shines as Phoebus in the world, fleeing after the dark coverings of the horrible night. Virgin Mary, the honest Paschal in joy has established this to remain for centuries. (Tr. Rick Bessey)


This is a fairly remarkable mosaic, with the donor present and a full and elaborate inscription proclaiming his deed. This is something that may not be seen again until the Renaissance, where individuals take credit for the work that they have sponsored.



It was in the Renaissance, under the Medici Cardinal, that the next wave of renovations took place. Notable, and immediately visible - which was the point - is the portico that was placed in front of the church. Neatly ordered and proportional, it is a textbook Renaissance embellishment, which, frankly, fits the church well. And, although the ceiling in its current iteration was completed much later, note that the Medici palle are still visible in the middle of the ceiling.


A comment should be made about the basin in front of the church. This is called the navicella, or "little ship" and was thought to be a Roman sculpture. Sometimes the church is referred to as Santa Maria alla Navicella, and the name of the street is Via Navicella. The ship, the portico, and the church all make for a very nice combination. The church itself is a very easy walk from the Colosseum; it is about 10 minutes from the main ticket booth and metro station, and half of that walk is taken up walking around to the "back" side of the Colosseum where you pick up Via Navicella.



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This post is part of a series of writings on the Lenten Churches of Rome. During the season of Lent a custom arose in Rome; mass would be celebrated at a different church throughout Lent. I am presenting each of those churches in order.

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