One of the oldest and most beautiful churches in Rome, Santa Maria in Trastevere is also located in one of the most delightful areas of the city.
Away from the crows of tourists that surround the Vatican or the Colosseum (but, to be clear, no less crowded), just on the other side of the Tiber river, you will find the area called Trastevere. The crowds here are more local and more interested in relaxing and enjoying their time in the city without any schedule or agenda. Here you will find the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere.
A legend surrounds the area of Santa Maria in Trastevere; at the birth of Christ a fountain of oil burst forth where the present church sits. Two centuries later, the area was slated for a retirement home of sorts for soldiers. However, the Emperor Septimius Severus (Emperor 145-211) was said to have changed his mind and granted this land to the Christians. These events are mentioned in an inscription over the ceiling: In hac prima Dei Matris aede taberna olim meritoria olei fons e solo erumpens christi ortum portendit. (On this first buidling of the Mother of God, a veteran's home, a fountainof oil bursting forth from the ground fortold the birth of Christ. Translation, Rick Bessey, Author.) A few years later, wasting no time, around the year 222, Pope Callixtus created the first basilica here.
It has always struck me as somewhat odd that the church is not centered in it's piazza, but set off to the side. This offset, however, adds to the uniqueness of the setting. The facade of the church is covered with a shallow portico with rounded arches. These are, needless to say, a later addition.
Upon entering the church you know that you are in an ancient structure. In the style of the Roman basilica, the building is as wide as it is high. There are massive columns leading to the beautifully decorated apse behind the altar. The granite columns have been taken from the Baths of Caracalla. If you have ever wondered what happened to ancient structures, this is an outstanding example; the buildings were taken apart and repurposed. Notice that the columns are connected not by arches, as you will regularly see in the Renaissance, but by a single straight lintel, which is more common in ancient Roman structures. (Think of the front of the most famous Roman building, the Pantheon.)
Take the time to walk to the end of the nave and take in the mosaics. The main scene is Christ next to Mary enthroned and he is placing his arm around her, resting it on her shoulder.
Above the head of Christ the hand of God reaches down. Flanking the two are various members of the church. To the left of the scene is Pope Innocent II, holding a model of the church, this church, which he rebuilt. Next to him is St. Laurence, and next to him is Pope Callixtus, whose relics lie under the altar. In these mosaics you need not possess any knowledge of identifying saints, nor do you need to recall the symbols of the Evangelists. All the individuals have labels! (The symbols of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John respectively are a man, a lion, an ox, and an eagle - although they are in a different order in the mosaic over the apse.)
On a pleasant day or evening it is enjoyable to take the time to relax in the square outside the church. The current fountain in the piazza is reasonably regarded as one of the oldest in the city, and, although reconfigured and modified over the centuries, it, nevertheless has always been a gathering point. And, although there is no connection - because octagonal fountains and squares are quite common in Rome - Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere reminds me very much of the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti near the Colosseum. They are a great gathering place for lively crowds and a relaxed, happy atmosphere. Take the time to take a break and enjoy simply being in Rome.
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