Santa Pudenziana - Tuesday, Third Week of Lent

On Tuesday, the Thid Week of Lent we turn to one of the oldest churches in Rome, constructed between 140 and 155 AD. Santa Pudenziana is dedicated to one of the daughters of Pudens, a Roman who was converted and subsequently baptized by Peter in Rome. (We will visit the church dedicated to Praxides, the other daughter of Pudens, sister to Pudenzia, at a later date.) Pudens is mentioned by Paul at the close of his letter to Timothy, "Do your best to get here before winter. Eubulus greets you, and so do Pudens, Linus, Claudia and all the brothers and sisters." (NIV) Typical of the oldest churches in Rome, this is a titulus, or "titular" church, meaning it was built over the remains of a Roman home where Christian meetings and worship took place. Archaeology shows that the church also incorporated parts of a Roman bath too.

As you approach the church you will notice, as we have seen many times already, that the church is below the level of the street. Often times it is because the level of Rome has, in effect, risen. In this case the street out front was deliberately raised by Pope Sixtus V to provide easier access to nearby Santa Maria Maggiore.

The church is a basilica style church with two side aisles. The overall decor seems of a much later date, and has been kept up throughout the years, both in terms of the structure as well as the decoration. It is the apse with it's magnificent mosaic, and the octagonal dome that draw the viewer forward.

The mosaic apse, created in 390, is the oldest mosaic apse in the city, which is actually quite remarkable. After viewing so many golden byzantine mosaics where the figures gaze straight at the spectator, it is surprising to see an older, more natural mosaic. Christ sits enthroned in the center and the apostles surrounding him look around either at each other, at others outside of the frame, or at Christ Himself. He holds a book that reads in Latin, "Dominus Conservator Ecclesiae Pudentiana", which means, Lord Preserver of the Church of Pudentiana. The setting is not a mystical golden non-descript background, but the city of Jerusalem. Overall, this mosaic appears to be in the style of a painting, rather than what is traditionally associated with a church.

The back of the church juts out into the street behind, and contains a chapel to Mary. Visible in the back also, is the octagonal dome.

This church is quite a gem, located in the heart of Rome. It is a very active church and weddings take place there often. Located very close to the train station, and, in particular, exceptionally close to Santa Maria Maggiore, a diversion may be well worth it if you are in the neighborhood!