The church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo is one of the more fascinating churches of the Lenten churches. The approach to the church is unique, for you walk up a hill under brick buttresses supporting the walls, of the church. And, as you walk up the hill to the church there is an entrance to view the Roman homes, interior walls still painted in the ancient Roman style! In other words, this church sits on the remains of Roman homes, which you can still enter and view - with their original decoration! (Click the links at the bottom of this post for images.)
Saints Giovanni and Paolo were officers under Constantine, and upon his death they refused to serve the new emperor. For this they were beheaded. They were buried in their home, which is currently beneath the church. (There is, of course, room for misgivings about this story. Although many stories of martyrs for the time immediately following Constantine bear the marks of credibility, this is not one of them. Neverheless, it is a good story, and worth repeating, as I have done here!)
[In the image above, note the arches over the Clivus Scauri.]
The exterior of the church, visible above the porch, shows the original brick work with columns. At the time of construction the columns would have been free-standing; the area between the columns would have been free of bricks. The columns show signs of damage, but it is unclear if the damage is a result of invasion in 410, or an earthquake at about the same time.
Walking inside the visitor is presented with an airy, open church, thanks to the clerestory windows lining the nave - despite the expectation of a dark interior from the darker brown marble. The ceiling is beautifully coffered in the style of the Pantheon, and the marble work on the floor is exquisite.
The church is located just east of the Via di San Gregorio, which is the road that connects the Colosseum with the Circus Maximus and skirts the base of the Palatine Hill. The piazza out front is flanked by the bell tower and the Clivus Scauri. Its location, cozy piazza, and sumptuous interior make the basilica quite popular on the wedding circuit. I would encourage moving this up the list for the casual visitor to Rome as well.
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