The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence is the perfect example of Renaissance architecture. The interior was designed by Brunelleschi, the creator of the dome of the Florence Cathedral., and inside San Lorenzo you will see all the hallmarks of the Renaissance.
The Basilica
San Lorenzo is the church of the Medici, the family who ruled Florence - officially or unofficially - during the Renaissance. This church, in fact, shares an intersection with the Medici Palace. As you stand in front of the church turn around and at the corner of the intersection you are looking at the back wall of the Medici Palace. (As an aside, it is worth the time to walk to the front of the Medici Palace and appreciate the architecture. You may even be able to go into the courtyard!)
It is my strong belief that experiencing this church will help you understand the Renaissance. In its simplest terms the Renaissance is a "rebirth" or a "revisiting" of all things ancient Rome. The architect, Brunelleschiwould travel to Rome, observe and make note of the ancient Roman structures and architecture, and return to Florence to implement the elements that he saw.
When you walk into the Basilica of San Lorenzo you immediately understand and feel the Renaissance mood. Notice the beautiful contrast of the walls and the architectural elements. The stone is called pietra serena, or serene stone. There is an absolute comforting sense of proportion and order. You have a central aisle - a very Roman arrangement - with arches that lead you to the altar. These arches are supported by pilasters with Corinthian capitals. My favorite feature is that the distance between each arch is the exact same distance between the columns and the outside wall. In other words, the side aisles are made up of perfectly proportioned square spaces that repeat the length of the nave.
If you are familiar with the Gothic style, or the elaborate churches of northern Europe this style can be quite striking. There appears to be a plainness or lack of decoration. Brunelleschi wanted to present ancient Roman architecture repurposed to suit the mood of the 1400s. He understood that, from an architectural perspective, if you put art and decoration on the wall, then people are no longer looking at the architecture, but at the art and decoration. Brunelleschi wanted the architecture to be the focus.
Take the time to walk around the basilica and enjoy simply being in this beautiful Renaissance space.
Here are some related elements that I encourage you not to miss:
Old Sacristy
As you approach the altar look to the left. There is a room there known as the Old Sacristy. (Yes - there is a new sacristy.) A sacristy is simply the place where the priest prepares for mass. Here in San Lorenzo it is also the burial place of Giovanni di Bicci de Medici - the patriarch of the Medici family. Note the beautify porphyry marble - that purple circle. On the one hand, this is arguably a modest place for this leader, but the rare porphyry raises the level to royalty.
Enjoy also this perfectly proportioned room. Notice how the square room is broken up architecturally into smaller repeating squares. The ceiling is domed, and there are these beautifully portioned pendentives (the triangular areas) that navigate the transition from a square to a circle. This is a truly exceptional, Renaissance space.
The Laurentian Library
When you buy your ticket to the Basilica you will be presented the option to buy a ticket that will allow entry to the library as well. Say "yes". The library and the beautiful staircase was designed by Michelangelo. You don't want to be so close to a space designed by Michelangelo and miss it!
Note that the Medici were avid collectors of ancient literary works, and the books and manuscripts gathered in this library are still utilized in scholarship today.
The New Sacristy and the Medici Chapels
The New Sacristy occupies the space exactly opposite the Old Sacristy and requires a separate ticket. Is it worth the admission? The New Sacristy is a space created by Michelangelo and contains six sculptures by Michelangelo. The answer is, therefore, yes!
As a youth Michelangelo was supported by the Medici, and later in his life, after he completed the Sistine Ceiling, he created tombs for two members of the Medici family. Representations of the two men sit over the tombs on the walls. Allegorical images of Night, Day, Dawn, and Dusk recline on the sarcophagi.
As you walk from the ticket booth to the New Sacristy you will pass under the dome of San Lorenzo, which you may have noticed from the outside. This is the chapel where the later members of the family reside. Notice the shift from the subtle memorial of the tomb in the Old Sacristy to this elaborate, ornate monument to the Medici family, which is from a much later period.
Your experience of San Lorenzo is a journey through the history of the Medici family. And along they way you will experience first-hand art and architecture of the absolute highest level.
--
San Lorenzo, Google Maps
Comments